Spain 2009 - Travel Journals, Part II

During my trip to Spain, I kept a travel journal. Here is what I did on my journey!

In the Gothic Quarter, Barcelona, 8/31/09.

Estacion de Autobuses, Granada - 9/2/09
Well, it's been a crazy couple of days.

Monday was pretty low-key; I walked to the end of the Ramblas and around the port, bought a small purse (which has been useful, and easier to carry around than my messenger bag or a somewhat awkward money belt), went up to Montjuic to catch a glimpse of the Miro museum, discovered that the Miro museum was closed on Mondays, dined on some tasty dishes, and also spent some time window shopping and cafe-hopping in the Ribera and the Barri Gotic. It also drizzled a little.

I also solved a minor mystery. During my time in Barcelona, I noticed several people carrying identical satchels, but I didn't get close enough to make out the logo on the bags. During my dinner on Monday, I was seated next to an overly talkative (and fairly annoying) pharmacist, and learned that there was a cardiologists' convention in Barcelona. Over the course of the dinner, I even saw conventioneers heading to a reception nearby.

Churros con chocolate, a Spanish delicacy, 8/30/09.

On Tuesday, I started the day by going for a final breakfast of chocolate and churros at a favorite place in the Gothic Quarter. Then, I took the subway and train over to the airport, which went smoothly. At the airport, I learned that Barcelona's two terminals were separated by a ten-minute bus ride; naturally, I needed to get to the far-away terminal. After going back and forth a little, I boarded the bus and headed to Terminal 1 (which, I surmise, is dedicated to discount airlines and/or shorter flights). I flew into Granada (sleeping most of the way there), took a bus to the center of town, and stepped off at the hotel before making my way to the Alhambra, as I had 3:30 tickets and wanted to arrive on time.

Regrettably, I was in enough of a hurry that I did not stop to check my guidebook. Also regrettably, I did not grab a bite to eat.


The Alhambra controls its visitors very strictly; you have to buy tickets, usually in advance, to see the site. Additionally, entry to the central Palacios Nazaries is carefully timed, so that visitors who don't arrive during the 'window' of time on their tickets are denied entry.

When I arrived, I printed out my ticket and went through the main gate, thinking that I did not have to worry about time so long as I had reached the general entrance by 3:30. I headed in the direction of the gardens and the Generalife, and spent a good amount of time wandering around there. By the time I made my way to the Nazaries, they were taking tickets for the 5:00 crowd, and I was, apparently, too late.

[to be continued]

At the Generalife Gardens, the Alhambra, 9/1/09. 

The Bus to Seville - 9/2/09
I was told by the attendant that, although this was not always the case, tickets were still available, and that I should try to buy a second ticket if I wanted to see the Palace. So, in a hungry panic, I headed all the way from the entry to the Nazaries to the box office. I got a 5:30 ticket, and, finally, I was able to make my way inside the palace.

Even though the lions in the famous Court of the Lions were being renovated, it was a worthwhile visit. There is a tremendous level of detail throughout the palace, and it was great to see it up close. I'm glad that things finally worked out.

After leaving the Alhambra, I walked through the Albayzin (Moorish Quarter), taking an uphill road until I reached the San Nicolas Viewpoint (a.k.a. el Mirador). The area is renowned for its sunset views of the Alhambra, and, fortunately enough, I arrived at about 7:00, just as the sun was beginning to sink. I (finally) grabbed a bite to eat and had some very refreshing sangria, then made my way to el Mirador as the sunset became more intense.

The view was great, and it was wonderful to see how the Alhambra was transformed by the light of the setting sun. It was also special to be surrounded by a motley group of people who had come from all around the world just to watch the sun set.

After having a hotel breakfast and checking out, I made my way to the bus depot. Now, I am beaded towards Seville, where I will spend the next day or so.

Unfortunately, I think I will need to skip Cordoba. I would like to go, and, technically, I could make it work, but time would be tight, and I'm not sure whether it would be worth the stress. I think I would be better off spending a little extra time in Seville.

I also have a little bit of sad news; my messenger bag has ripped from the strain of carrying my belongings I will need to be more careful with it for the remainder of the trip. Still, I think it was worth it to back light and avoid the stress of carting around a massive suitcase.

Anyhow, on to Seville!

At the Hotel, 9/2/09. This place had complimentary wine! 

Train to Madrid - 9/3/09
As indicated above, I am en route to Madrid.

Seville was fun, if a bit hectic. I arrived at about 1:00, made my way over to the hotel, and got settled in. At around 2:00, I went to the local RENFE (train) office, but it had just closed for the siesta and would not be opening until 5:30.

Because I wanted to see everything before it closed, I held off on eating until I had visited the cathedral and the royal palace (the Alcazar).

First, I went to the cathedral, which is notable because it covers such a large area (its the third largest cathedral, behind St. Paul's and the Vatican). It also houses the purported remains of Christopher Columbus, among other things. The most exciting part of the visit was walking up the Giralda belltower. Once I reached the top of the lengthy ramp (they used a ramp rather than stairs), I was able to enjoy sweeping views of the cathedral and the city). After spending some time in the palm garden (a remnant from the site's history as a mosque), I toured the Alcazar.

The Alcazar, which has served continuously as a royal palace since the middle ages, was originally built in a Muslim style, notwithstanding the fact that its patron was a Christian monarch. The second part of the palace was built with gothic arches and was decorated with Renaissance-style tiles.

After grabbing a bite to eat and (finally) purchasing my train tickets, I wandered around Seville before heading to a flamenco show. The show was well-done, and consisted of performances by four dancers, "backed up" by singers and guitar players. The percussive music and the rapid dancing were truly intense.

After leaving the show, I wandered around the restaurants of the Barrio Santa Cruz before returning to my hotel. My hotel in Seville was a bit of a splurge; compared to the other hotels I've stayed at, it was around $30/day more expensive. However, the hotel itself was memorable, and had a fun musical theme (my room was the 'Brahms' room, for example), was decorated with instruments, and apparently had pianos in some of the suites.

I am about 45 minutes from Madrid now; I did decide to forgo Cordoba in the interest of practicality. I think it'll make for an easier, less stressful trip, though it is a shame that I won't be seeing the mosque. I think I'll have plenty to do in Madrid and Toledo over the next 3 1/2 days, in any event.