Train from Toledo to Madrid - 9/5/09
I am now nearing the end of my trip, and have basically seen everything that I set out to see. Now I have one full day left, and can spend my time relaxing, taking in the ambiance, and revisiting my favorite places in Madrid.
Outside the Prado, 9/3/09.After arriving in Madrid and getting settled in to my hotel, I did the obvious thing and made a beeline for the Prado (I did get a bite to eat along the way). The museum itself is very exciting and overwhelming, with masterpieces around every corner, and, as with many great museums, it can leave one feeling exhausted. I think my favorite pieces to see in persons were Goya's Third of May, which appears even more graphic when viewed at a large scale, and (a bit surprisingly, Van der Weyedn's Descent from the Cross, a Northern Medieval altarpiece in which the flat composition, crisp details, and flat colors become more intense when they're life-size.
[to be continued]
Hostal Acalpulco, Rm. 40 - 9/5/09
Other favoriets were Goya's painting of Saturn, Bosch's Garden of Earthly Delights, Brueghel's Triumph of Death, and Velasquez's Los Borrachos. Las Meninas was also there, of course, and it was great to see it up close, but it didn't surprise me like some of the other works did.
In sync with the Giant Surrealist Metronome at the Reina Sofia museum, 9/3/09.After having my fill of the Prado, I headed a few blocks down to Reina Sofia, the modern art museum where Guernica is housed. I enjoyed looking around at the various surrealist, cubist, and other pieces. Plus, seeing Guernica up close was really an experience; the tiny reproductions I've seen in textbooks just don't do the piece justice, and I was glad that I got to view it up close. I was kicked out of the museum at its 9:00 closing time, but at least I got to see Guernica before I left.
Enjoying churros con chocolate, 9/4/09.On Friday, I started my day by heading out for a decadent breakfast of churros con chocolate. I then walked through the Plaza Mayor (where public events were historically held), stopped by the marketplace, and ambled towards the Royal Palace.
The Palace was fascinating insofar as the various rooms were decorated by successive generations of monarchs, in conformity with the trends of the day and with no expense spared. The effect was overwhelming, ostentatious, and more than a little tacky. For example, a room with porcelain walls and figurines would be situated next to a Baroque dining hall, and a turn-of-the-century billiard room with wood paneling would find itself next to a 'Chinese' style room covered with bright turquoise and yellow panels.
After my visit to the palace, I stepped inside the nearby Cathedral de la Almudena, a fairly modern building which was decorated in a neo-Gothic style. Before going to the main part of the cathedral, I climbed to the top and took in some views of the city.
Having seen the sights in the western part of town, I had lunch at a fancy local paella restaurant (La Paella Real, with 'real' meaning 'royal') and had a delicious lunch.
Once I finished my lunch, I headed to my hotel to take a quick break, then went back out for some more museum-hopping. I visited the Thyssen-Bornenisza Museum, got kicked out at closing time (7:00), and made a return trip to Reina Sofia. As it turned out, I saw most of the museum on the first trip. Still, admission was free, and it was good to see Guernica again. I felt newfound sympathy for the guards, who kept having to chastise visitors for taking flash pictures.
Palling around with Cervantes, 9/5/09.Today, I decided to take a day trip to Toledo. Most of the sights were relatively minor, but it was fun wandering around the city (which was Spain's political center before Madrid), getting lost among the hilly, narrow roads, and seeing the wide range of cheesy tourist shops.
After leaving the train station and making my way to the old town, I started my visit by going to the Santa Cruz museum. The cloister there was peaceful, and they had some nice craftwork on display. Unfortunately, the museum's 15 El Greco paintings, which are its major selling point, were on tour in Mexico, so I was unable to see them. I walked by the Alcazar, a former imperial residence which is closed for renovation and will eventually become a military museum.
Later, I went inside the Cathedral, which is a bit austere on the outside but brimming with details and artwork within its walls. The space itself was massive and bright, and the carious areas inside the cathedral reflected its varied history. My favorite parts were the Choir, which had a history of the Reconquista carved into its wooden chairs, and the Transparente, a crazy Baroque compositions involving sculptures and painted figures all focused around a light-filled dome.
Afterwards, I made my way over to the small Santo Tome chapel, which is notable as the site where El Greco's famous Burial of the Count of Orgaz It was great to see the piece in context (the Count in the painting is more or less being lowered into his actual tomb) and it was intersting to learn more about the local legend which was the inspiration for the painting.
Finally, I walked through town and visited the tiny Mezquita del Cristode la Luz, a mosque which was converted to a church in 1187.
After my visit, I made my way way over to the Plaza de Zocodover and took in the ambiance before taking my train back to Madrid.
Now, having rested up a bit, I am going to enjoy a night on the town. Hopefully it'll be a fun evening!
Puerta del Sol, 9/6/09. Flight from Madrid to Philadelphia - 9/7/09
Well, the trip is over, and I am on my way back home (and, ultimately, to work). I feel more relaxed than I have in a long while, and I'm very glad I was able to get away.
Yesterday, I started out by going to El Rastro, where there is a weekly flea market. Most of the stuff there was pretty disposable, but it was great to see how bast it was, both in terms of the size of the market and the sheer number of people.
Subsequently, I went to the other side of town for a quick lunch and a relaxing stroll through El Parque de Buen Retiro. As I was feeling a bit de-energised, I stopped by my hotel before making a return trip to the Prado. This also allowed me to enter the museum at a later time, when the admission was free.
I had just enough time to go through the museum and take another glance at my favorites. I think I enjoyed seeing Las Meninas more on the second time around. I also enjoyed looking at Tintoretto's charming and casual Christ Washing the Feet of the Disciples, a massive canvas that makes great use of space and perspective.
After getting kicked out of the Prado, I wandered around before having one final dinner in the area south of the Plaza Mayor.
The day itself was pretty low-key and relaxing, which is probably for the best. I feel like I was able to dedicate a lot of time to sightseeing, but I'm glad that I didn't get to the point where I was overwhelmed, or where I didn't get a chance to aimlessly wander around the cities I visited.
There are a lot of babies on this plane.
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